Translation: The largest ice cave in the world, chocolate for lunch, and my Austrian sister! (Or thereabouts... Astrid's at work so she might correct something when she reads this.)
I was SO nervous on the plane from Berlin to Graz. What if Astrid and I don't get along like we used to? What is she's stuck with me for a week?!?
Yeah, right.
The instant I saw Astrid, I almost burst into tears. It had been around FIVE YEARS since I've seen her. She ran up and hugged about a million times, and we just stood in the middle of the airport for minutes staring at each other, right in everyone's way. When we could finally move, we walked out to the car. Astrid put it perfectly: It felt like I've been gone for a week.
It felt like coming home.
It is the most incredible thing to have this family. The Venningdorfs are amazing. Astrid picked me up in the same car she did in 2003, but now she can drive it. I remembered the way to her house, and it is still as beautiful as ever. Her parents hugged me like they saw me yesterday. The only thing different was I almost had a heart attack when I saw her little brother. Last time I saw him he was ten and bit of a little terror. Well, now he's fifteen and TALLER THAN ME. I'm still not over it. Like, he literally just walked in the living room while I'm writing this and even though it's wearing off a little, I still am surprised even after 5 days.
This time my room is on the top floor. Astrid's house is four stories if you include the basement, so I'm three flights of stairs off the ground. Her old room is now her dad's office, and she lives in an apartment in the city with her boyfriend Hannes but still has a room right across the hall from mine. We have the whole top floor to ourselves. Right after I got here, her family fed me as usual (her mom is an amazing cook!) and I had my first real homemade meal in a long time. Next up was a shower, which seemed to have become a really hot commodity for me. After that, Hannes was set to come over, and according to Astrid both him and I were really nervous about it. Well, no need to be because he's wonderful. He's softspoken and so good-hearted you wouldn't believe it. He loves motorcycles, photography and rock-climbing. He's also in the same program as Astrid studying to be a doctor, and he works as an ambulance driver with her all night every Saturday. You can tell how much he loves Astrid just by looking at him. Basically they're the cutest couple, and I'm so happy for her!
An older man who is one of Astrid and Hannes' Red Cross colleagues was having a birthday party at a restaurant in the hills near the Venningdorfs' house, and she asked me if I wanted to go. The view from our tables was gorgeous over the red rooftops of the city, and the food was pure Austrian. Huge wooden platters of meats and cheeses came out with baskets of bread, and I got to try a little of everything. Astrid and I shared a slice of marzipan cake. Even though everyone spoke German the entire time, it was really cool to sit in on the party. I don't really know how to explain it, but I got to be a fly on the wall and experience something that still would have happened in a foreign country had I not been there.
After dinner, 14 of us went to a bar called Seasons where they serve "bowles", or drinks of wine and champagne mixed together with tons of different kinds of fruit, named for the giant bowls they are usually served in. Think like a punchbowl. I tried one with strawberries and bananas and another with apricots and kiwis. Soooo good. I was the only one there who was A) American and B) not an ambulance driver, but I got to meet a bunch of her friends, including the two other guys we are going to Croatia with. After an hour of two, we went home and I passed out after not having slept more than an hour and a half the night before.
Monday was beautiful. We spent the morning at Astrid's house, which included yet another amazing lunch, this time of pasta with shrimp. I cannot get over how good her mom's food is. At one point I was sitting on the couch showing Astrid some pictures and I had been wondering when I was going to see her grandma. Well, in she walks and we both stop dead. I practically throw the computer on Astrid's lap (sorry...) and her grandma almost started crying. We have the most amazing relationship because she only knows a few words in English and I speak horrible German, but she still feels like a grandma to me. A few minutes ago she walked through the living room, said something in German to me and put her hand on my shoulder. Then she walked out. It's so wonderful.
In the afternoon Astrid took me into the city. Her apartment is so cool. It's like one of those funky city apartments we all want to have, and she's an amazing decorator. Then we went up to the Schlossberg (the big mountain with the clock tower on top) to visit a cafe. Along the way we walked passsed a small train that takes children through the tunnels of the mountain past animatronic figures showing scenes of Austrian fairytales, and Astrid told me her grandma used to take her on it when she was little. So of course I wanted to go. We bought tickets and went up the lift to the cafe to drink orange juice and wait for our train ride. It was the cutest little ride, and I learned a lot about the fairytales Astird grew up with. Afterward, Hannes had to leave but Astrid and I walked through the city center, stopping at a bookstore, a department store, Swarovski... You get it. We came back to her parents' house to eat pizza baguettes for dinner on her back patio while her brother and Hannes played soccer behind us. We talked about boys, dating, school, everything. She really is like a sister, even if she lives across the world.
On Tuesday, Astrid had planned a trip to Eisriesenwelt, which is the world's largest ice cave in the province of Salzburg (the northwestern part of Austria). I had no idea what to expect. I thoroughly enjoyed the hour and a half drive, and Astrid and Hannes probably got a little sick of me saying "WHOA." and taking pictures out the window. We finally parked the car in a busy lot and started walking up to the ticket office. Astrid hadn't been to the cave since she was nine or ten, and Hannes had never been so it really was an experience for all of us. Basically, we had a 20 minute hike, a ride in Austria's steepest cable car, and another 20 minute hike until we came to what was literally a giant hole in the side of a sheer rocky summit. The entrance to the cave was noticably colder and the closer to the front of the line we got, the more you could see your breath. It was incredible considering that 30 feet before this spot we'd been sweating from our steep hike. All bundled up, we were handed small lanterns with a single flame and were led inside by a guide with a special magnesium flare. A gust of freezing air hit us, and once our lanterns were re-lit, we found ourselves in a giant black hole with a wooden path beneath our feet. The tour took us 7000km above sea level and 1km into the mountain passed formations called the Ice Polar Bear and the Ice Elephant and through rooms called the Ice Castle and the Ice Palace. The tour guide would tell us where to stop and climb off into the nearest formation. It would be completely dark until he would relight his flare and the most amazing caverns and ice formations would light up like you wouldn't believe. 700 stairs up, 700 back down, and I'd seen one of the most incredible sights of my life. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed but here's a link to the website where you can see some pictures:
http://www.eisriesenwelt.at/site/content/CB_ContentShow.php?coType=photos
On the drive back, Astrid took a detour to the most beautiful lakes I've ever seen near the most adorable small towns. Austrian lakes are incredible because they are surrounded by mountains that look like they continue straight down under the water. You can see all the way to the bottom, and the scenery is just magnificent. Pictures will never do them justice. We sat at a small restaurant for some Eis (ice cream) near the water, and as usual we fought over who would pay. Astrid never EVER lets me pay for anything and it's even worse when Hannes is around. Well, this time she thought she was being clever by saying that if I understood how much it was, I could pay. What she doesn't know is that numbers in German are my specialty, and my crowning moment was when I paid perfectly and she was speechless. Sorry Astrid, that's just my style.
After the lakes we drove back to Graz to eat dinner at Cooking Wu, the most amazing Chinese restaurant I've ever been to. It's a little like Benni Hana's (I have no idea how to spell that) in that you get to mix together any and all the ingredients you want, put a tag on your plate for the sauce you want, and give it to the cooks. I got chow mein noodles with tons of vegetables, shrimp and calamari with an oyster on a halfshell on the side. After that plus appetizers and dessert, Astrid and I couldn't move, and I introduced them to the concept of a "food baby" which they thought was hilarious. We've actually been exchanging phrases and slang and the like quite a bit. They've told me about "a dying bird" which is a person who is sick but acting as if they will never recover and "an earworm" which is the expression they use when a song is stuck in your head. And I have left them with the incredibly intellectual concepts of a "man purse" which comes into play as Hannes holds Astrid's purse when she goes to the water closet, as well as "backseat driver" which Astrid thoroughly enjoys calling Hannes when he tries to tell her how to drive.
The only downside to this week is that right after I got here, Astrid's dad came down with a terrible flu (hence the "dying bird"), which her mom then got, and then her brother. They were down for the count for a few days, but are much better now.
Wednesday was a lot more mellow. Astrid and I walked around the Seiersburg mall for awhile until it was time to head back to her house for lunch with her grandmother. FYI, Knödel is amazing. After lunch, Astrid, Hannes and I headed to Phillippe for the best ice cream in Graz. If there is one thing Astrid and I share, it's our love of ice cream. I got three scoops (!), one of chocolate, one of hazelnut, and one of Astrid's favorite - marzipan. Part of the reason we went is because she wanted me to compare it to Charley Temmel ice cream, which is all over Graz. Winner: Phillipe. After that it was off to Astrid's apartment so she could get ready for work at a Interspar, a local grocery store. I told her I would be fine going into the city center on my own, but she was still worried. However, I absolutely managed to find my way to Hauptplatz and back to her apartment wihtout any trouble. Once back at her apartment, Hannes and I got a chance to talk for awhile. He showed me the route we are going to take when we go camping in Croatia this weekend and pictures from Triest, Italy, where we are stopping for lunch on the way. He told me all about how Astrid loves to to cook and decorate, and I found a book on her shelf in her bedroom that I have on my bookshelf in mine. It’s a very large book called The Travel Book with a overview and pictures of every country in the world. When she finally came back from work we were so shocked that we both had it. I love how much we’re alike. Wednesday night was the night of one of Astrid’s friend's birthday parties. Before we left, Astrid showed me the scrapbooks she had made and was in the process of making for Hannes of all the things they have done in the three years they have been together. So adorable. Then we were off to Cohibar, a Mexican style cantina. I actually got to help everyone with the menu since the dishes were all in Spanish. I ended up with a chicken burrito, which included corn, peas and green beans. Astrid laughed and said it was what Austrians think burritos would be like. I also had a margharita, which she thought was funny as well. Margharitas and burritos in Graz? Who knew.
Thursday was a day we’d all been looking forward to all week. Astrid had made reservations for the three of us and her brother to go to one of Austria’s most famous chocolate factories, Zotter. We got there quite a bit early so we walked along the road past some of the coolest old farms until we found a perfect view of Riegersberg Castle in the distance. (We went on a tour of the castle last time I was here with Mom. It’s full of witchcraft history!) Then it was back to Zotter, which let me tell you, has enough personality for everyone. When you get there, you get a really cool ceramic tasting spoon to keep, and they start the tour with a movie about where Zotter chocolate comes from. After, they give you an audioguide to guide you through the factory, where you can taste cocoa beans at every stage of the process, cocoa butter, unsweetened chocolate, and 150 FLAVORS OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT. Astrid and I made it through to the hallway where you can taste probably about 30 different flavors by cracking the pieces off in specially made crackers before we started feeling sick. We wanted to try everything! They had flavors like strawberry, green tea, soy milk, rose petal, you name it. I slightly recovered in the Trinkschokolade room, aka my favorite (!) hot chocolate, where there were little cars on cables floating around the room with 15 different flavors to choose from. You get a glass of hot frothy milk, pick your flavor, and drop the whole chocolate bar in. Once it starts to melt, you mix it in and vóila, your hot chocolate is ready. I chose honey cinnamon, and Astrid got bourbon vanilla. Both were SO good. We passed on the next couple tasting stations, but couldn’t help it when we got to the end. The was where little cars on a conveyor belt passed by you with the strangest flavors. These included Plum Bacon, Pot, and Fish flavored chocolate. Pass. I walked out with presents for everyone, so be ready. :)
We drove back to Graz for lunch with the family, but also so Thorsten could pick up his street bike. He got his license the day before, and Erik and Rolande bought him a new bike! Not only that, but Hannes' motorcycle had been in the shop for a few days, and you would have thought he lost his right arm. He got it back that day too. The boys had their perfect day, and Astrid and I got ours because she had gotten tickets to see Die Nacht der Musicals that night on top of the Schlossburg, which is a production that travels all over Europe performing the most famous songs from quite a few musicals. They change often, but last night they did Mamma Mia!, Grease, the Phantom of the Opera, the Lion King, Jekyl and Hyde, We Will Rock You, the Rocky Horror Picture Show, and so many more. Astrid got to show me some of her favorite musicals, including Mozart, Elisabeth, and Tänz der Vampires, while she had never heard of Wicked and got to hear "Not That Girl" and "As Long as Your Mine". The second is one of my favorite songs from the show. I promised her that if she came to California and it was still playing I would take her to see it. At the end of the show, the actors did two encores. The first was "Thank You for the Music" from Mamma Mia!, and for the second they got the whole audience to do the "Time Warp" from Rocky Horror. After the show we were starving, so we got some pizza before heading home.
Today was very mellow. We went shopping for food for our camping trip to Croatia in the morning, and I’ve been typing the whole time Astrid’s been at work.
As for the next adventure, it’s off to camp on an island off of the coast of Croatia for two nights. Monday night we’re in Vienna. And then very early Tuesday morning, I’m on a plane back to California. I can’t believe that nine weeks is almost up! This has been the most incredible experience. It will be nice to be home, but it’s going to be weird. I can’t wait to see you all…
Friday, 13 August 2010
Later, U.K.
It has been absolutely FOREVER since I've had a chance to write a post. But don't worry, it's because I've been having sooooo much fun in Austria!
I can't believe it's been almost a week since I left Cork! I went to the Cork Butter Museum like I said I was going to, but it was about as exciting as it sounds. I basically looked at antique butter churns in a building reminiscent of a small town veteran's hall and watched a video from the 70s about the Irish butter trade on your grandma's couch. Interesting but not unmissable. After the museum, I walked to the most famous church in Cork (St. Ann's) which has a clock tower called the "Four-Faced Liar" because all four faces show a different time. However, when I got there it was €6 to get in, and I wasn't really in the mood. Oh, and it was raining in the weirdest way. It wasn't pouring because the mist was so fine, but I got soaked instantly. I was more surprised than frustrated that I was sopping, and I spent my travelling time trying to figure out how it happened. As I continued to aimlessly walk through Cork after the church, I was contemplating what it was about the city that just wouldn't let me like it very much. Was it the dreary weather? The unenthusiastic people? The dirty unkempt buildings? Or was it the fact that everywhere you walk you have to manuever around the sidewalk so as to miss any of the giant piles of dog poop that owners just leave on the ground? However, as these thoughts were racing through my head, the craziest thing happened.
THE SUN CAME OUT.
Cork was INSTANTLY a different city. My mood changed immediately as I watched people come outside, and the city came alive. I decided to spend the rest of the afternoon killing time by heading once again to the main streets and shopping areas to see what was going on. The streets were crawling with people, and the town was so busy! There were outdoor markets, where I found some pretty cool presents for people *cough*PHIL*coughcough*, and there were buskers and street performers everywhere. Cork was beautiful when the sun was out. Too bad it was only a few hours before I left.
After shopping, I headed back to the bed and breakfast I stayed at to get my luggage. I still had an hour before the bus left for the airport, and the lady at the front desk offered to let me hang out in the reception area. I ate the half of my lunch I had saved and read some more of The Catcher in the Rye (by the way Andy, I love both of the books you got me... but we'll discuss that when I get back) while the receptionist watched Pirates of the Caribbean a few feet away. I chuckled out loud because it was such a hilarious situation. It got even better though when she decided she wanted to talk to me. Amy and Dan had warned me that the accents in Cork are so thick that they can barely understand them, and they're from DUBLIN. I'd only had a little run-in with that problem before this, but I kid you not, I could hardly understand what she said. She talked to fast and with such a thick accent that I probably understood about 3% of the verbal content and another 40% through body language, which, do the math, leaves me with about 57% percent of the 20-minute conversation STILL completely unknown. I know she was talking about her daughter's wedding, her own birthday, and something about her daughter-in-laws financial situation. One sentence she said over and over was "Tear'p tuh sumtin'", which I finally figured out was "They're up to something". Other than that I'm still in the dark. Bottom line is, if you're in Cork (or "CARK" as they would say), make sure you're really good at smiling and nodding at correct and socially appropriate intervals.
The bus finally came to take me to the airport. The driver was really friendly and asked me a lot about California as he drove me and an older lady through the amazing countryside to the airport. If you have Facebook, you probably saw my status, but again: MY NEW FAVORITE COLOR IS IRELAND. It's absolutely beautiful.
The flight to Heathrow was short and painless, and I enjoyed my last moments of travelling alone. My plane was slightly delayed so didn't get into London until 10 p.m., but even though I couldn't see the city, it instantly felt familiar. It was a really cool feeling. I got my luggage and once again had to figure out how to get from point A to point B while standing clueless on a sidewalk next to a pile of luggage. That situation also felt oddly familiar by now. At least Tia had tipped me off on how to get to the hotel where she, Jaclyn and Colin were letting me crash for the night. I finally made it to the room and was really content with people I actually knew for the first time in a week. We were about to go on a hunt for food at around 11 when I found myself in a not-so-wonderful mess. Heathrow is HUGE and I had no idea which of the 5 terminals I had to be at at 5 in the morning. If I ended up at the wrong one, I would have to take a bus to any of the other 4 and risk missing my flight. Not cool. In a nutshell, the hotel charges a gazillion pounds for internet, Mom was on Whiskeytown Lake nowhere near a computer, and Dad couldn't find my flight online. It kept saying that my reservation could not be found, so I went called the help number. The first time: "We're sorry, the number you are trying to call DOES NOT EXIST." The second time: "The office you are trying to reach is NOT OPEN." Now it was about 11:30, Tia, Jaclyn and Colin had left for food without me, and I was on the verge of tears. The man at the front desk gave me the wrong information twice, and finally I had to decide to chance it in the morning by asking the bus driver. Starving, I ran out the door of the hotel after my friends and finally caught up with them outside of an Indian food restaurant that was closing as we got there, but the man was nice enough to let us order. We took our food back to the hotel and had a four-person picnic on the California King-sized bed in our room. Chicken curry and rice never tasted to good.
I slept from 1:45 to 3:15. London's really cold when you're waiting for a bus outside at 4:30 a.m. However, I made it to the right terminal. Luckily, at 5:30 in the morning in London it is 9:30 at night in San Luis Obispo, and I got to spend my time waiting by talking to Andy and Jen, who happened to be together at the time. I miss you two soooooo much!
I had to catch a connecting flight in Berlin, and once there I realized how much of the basic German I used to know is gone. I found a German-English dictionary and got to studying. Funny thing about Germany... I've been to the airports in Munich, Frankfurt, and now Berlin, but I've never really been TO the country. Next time I'm in Europe...
Anyway, here's the point where I cut off my blog, because the next part all takes place in AUSTRIA!!!
I can't believe it's been almost a week since I left Cork! I went to the Cork Butter Museum like I said I was going to, but it was about as exciting as it sounds. I basically looked at antique butter churns in a building reminiscent of a small town veteran's hall and watched a video from the 70s about the Irish butter trade on your grandma's couch. Interesting but not unmissable. After the museum, I walked to the most famous church in Cork (St. Ann's) which has a clock tower called the "Four-Faced Liar" because all four faces show a different time. However, when I got there it was €6 to get in, and I wasn't really in the mood. Oh, and it was raining in the weirdest way. It wasn't pouring because the mist was so fine, but I got soaked instantly. I was more surprised than frustrated that I was sopping, and I spent my travelling time trying to figure out how it happened. As I continued to aimlessly walk through Cork after the church, I was contemplating what it was about the city that just wouldn't let me like it very much. Was it the dreary weather? The unenthusiastic people? The dirty unkempt buildings? Or was it the fact that everywhere you walk you have to manuever around the sidewalk so as to miss any of the giant piles of dog poop that owners just leave on the ground? However, as these thoughts were racing through my head, the craziest thing happened.
THE SUN CAME OUT.
Cork was INSTANTLY a different city. My mood changed immediately as I watched people come outside, and the city came alive. I decided to spend the rest of the afternoon killing time by heading once again to the main streets and shopping areas to see what was going on. The streets were crawling with people, and the town was so busy! There were outdoor markets, where I found some pretty cool presents for people *cough*PHIL*coughcough*, and there were buskers and street performers everywhere. Cork was beautiful when the sun was out. Too bad it was only a few hours before I left.
After shopping, I headed back to the bed and breakfast I stayed at to get my luggage. I still had an hour before the bus left for the airport, and the lady at the front desk offered to let me hang out in the reception area. I ate the half of my lunch I had saved and read some more of The Catcher in the Rye (by the way Andy, I love both of the books you got me... but we'll discuss that when I get back) while the receptionist watched Pirates of the Caribbean a few feet away. I chuckled out loud because it was such a hilarious situation. It got even better though when she decided she wanted to talk to me. Amy and Dan had warned me that the accents in Cork are so thick that they can barely understand them, and they're from DUBLIN. I'd only had a little run-in with that problem before this, but I kid you not, I could hardly understand what she said. She talked to fast and with such a thick accent that I probably understood about 3% of the verbal content and another 40% through body language, which, do the math, leaves me with about 57% percent of the 20-minute conversation STILL completely unknown. I know she was talking about her daughter's wedding, her own birthday, and something about her daughter-in-laws financial situation. One sentence she said over and over was "Tear'p tuh sumtin'", which I finally figured out was "They're up to something". Other than that I'm still in the dark. Bottom line is, if you're in Cork (or "CARK" as they would say), make sure you're really good at smiling and nodding at correct and socially appropriate intervals.
The bus finally came to take me to the airport. The driver was really friendly and asked me a lot about California as he drove me and an older lady through the amazing countryside to the airport. If you have Facebook, you probably saw my status, but again: MY NEW FAVORITE COLOR IS IRELAND. It's absolutely beautiful.
The flight to Heathrow was short and painless, and I enjoyed my last moments of travelling alone. My plane was slightly delayed so didn't get into London until 10 p.m., but even though I couldn't see the city, it instantly felt familiar. It was a really cool feeling. I got my luggage and once again had to figure out how to get from point A to point B while standing clueless on a sidewalk next to a pile of luggage. That situation also felt oddly familiar by now. At least Tia had tipped me off on how to get to the hotel where she, Jaclyn and Colin were letting me crash for the night. I finally made it to the room and was really content with people I actually knew for the first time in a week. We were about to go on a hunt for food at around 11 when I found myself in a not-so-wonderful mess. Heathrow is HUGE and I had no idea which of the 5 terminals I had to be at at 5 in the morning. If I ended up at the wrong one, I would have to take a bus to any of the other 4 and risk missing my flight. Not cool. In a nutshell, the hotel charges a gazillion pounds for internet, Mom was on Whiskeytown Lake nowhere near a computer, and Dad couldn't find my flight online. It kept saying that my reservation could not be found, so I went called the help number. The first time: "We're sorry, the number you are trying to call DOES NOT EXIST." The second time: "The office you are trying to reach is NOT OPEN." Now it was about 11:30, Tia, Jaclyn and Colin had left for food without me, and I was on the verge of tears. The man at the front desk gave me the wrong information twice, and finally I had to decide to chance it in the morning by asking the bus driver. Starving, I ran out the door of the hotel after my friends and finally caught up with them outside of an Indian food restaurant that was closing as we got there, but the man was nice enough to let us order. We took our food back to the hotel and had a four-person picnic on the California King-sized bed in our room. Chicken curry and rice never tasted to good.
I slept from 1:45 to 3:15. London's really cold when you're waiting for a bus outside at 4:30 a.m. However, I made it to the right terminal. Luckily, at 5:30 in the morning in London it is 9:30 at night in San Luis Obispo, and I got to spend my time waiting by talking to Andy and Jen, who happened to be together at the time. I miss you two soooooo much!
I had to catch a connecting flight in Berlin, and once there I realized how much of the basic German I used to know is gone. I found a German-English dictionary and got to studying. Funny thing about Germany... I've been to the airports in Munich, Frankfurt, and now Berlin, but I've never really been TO the country. Next time I'm in Europe...
Anyway, here's the point where I cut off my blog, because the next part all takes place in AUSTRIA!!!
Saturday, 7 August 2010
A "Reimagined" Version of Sweeney Todd
And by "reimagined", apparently they mean they're going to do it badly.
So if you were jealous of my Sweeney Todd tickets at the Everyman Palace Theatre last night, sorry I wasted your emotions. (ABBA would be disappointed.) I mean, don't get me wrong, it had some good parts. But let's just say it's a good thing they rehearsed "A Little Priest" (the last number of the first act) so much because I thought about leaving during intermission.
Alright, I'm being a little harsh. Turns out the production was done by the Cork Operatic Society, which means the singing was great. There was also a 30-piece orchestra playing the score, which was also really cool to see. However, they should have advertised it as a musical review of the songs from Sweeney Todd, because then they could have gotten away with the complete lack of acting. Cara O'Sullivan was a guest star, and while her voice was incredible, she was very much out of place. While the other actors were at least trying to seriously play their parts, she seemed to be making a mockery of the role she was playing. They put her in a costume that was absolutely out of the style of everyone else's, and she totally hammed it up. I was annoyed. I found out afterward that she is one of Cork's favorite local singers, which made a little more sense as to why everyone else in the audience loved it. I understand why she's one of their singing pride-and-joys, because like I said before, her voice is incredible. But honey, you can't use your voice as a crutch when it comes to musical theatre. Anyway, Sweeney Todd himself was pretty entertaining, but only because he played his role as the most epic part that ever existed. Anthony tried really hard to do an English accent, but failed. The only redeeming parts in the cast were Mrs. Lovett who was fantastic (but a great actor can only do so much without anything to play off of). The girl who played Joanna had the most incredible, effortless voice, but they had her in an outrageously fake blonde wig when she was obviously very brunette. And lastly, one of the very minor ensemble characters was so committed that I ended up watching him the whole time.
The bottom line was the set was lame, the makeup was WAAAY too heavy (if you're going to give someone sunken eyes, at least stay in their natural eye socket - I'm pretty sure there aren't any raccoons written into the book for Sweeney Todd) and the costumes were not great (Tom Bernard would have cried), the acting was forced, the theatre staff was unprofessional, the orchestra members got up and walked around the auditorium at the interval. Basically, it seemed like they tried to put on a show with as little money and effort as possible and thought no one would notice. I did. There were times I wanted my money back.
However, the singing was impressive. And I can say I've seen Sweeney Todd.
Sort of.
Whatever, I'm going to the Cork Butter Museum. And then the airport. And then London. And then Austria! I CANNOT WAIT TO SEE ASTRID AND THE VENNINGDORFS!!!! It feels a little like going home. :)
So if you were jealous of my Sweeney Todd tickets at the Everyman Palace Theatre last night, sorry I wasted your emotions. (ABBA would be disappointed.) I mean, don't get me wrong, it had some good parts. But let's just say it's a good thing they rehearsed "A Little Priest" (the last number of the first act) so much because I thought about leaving during intermission.
Alright, I'm being a little harsh. Turns out the production was done by the Cork Operatic Society, which means the singing was great. There was also a 30-piece orchestra playing the score, which was also really cool to see. However, they should have advertised it as a musical review of the songs from Sweeney Todd, because then they could have gotten away with the complete lack of acting. Cara O'Sullivan was a guest star, and while her voice was incredible, she was very much out of place. While the other actors were at least trying to seriously play their parts, she seemed to be making a mockery of the role she was playing. They put her in a costume that was absolutely out of the style of everyone else's, and she totally hammed it up. I was annoyed. I found out afterward that she is one of Cork's favorite local singers, which made a little more sense as to why everyone else in the audience loved it. I understand why she's one of their singing pride-and-joys, because like I said before, her voice is incredible. But honey, you can't use your voice as a crutch when it comes to musical theatre. Anyway, Sweeney Todd himself was pretty entertaining, but only because he played his role as the most epic part that ever existed. Anthony tried really hard to do an English accent, but failed. The only redeeming parts in the cast were Mrs. Lovett who was fantastic (but a great actor can only do so much without anything to play off of). The girl who played Joanna had the most incredible, effortless voice, but they had her in an outrageously fake blonde wig when she was obviously very brunette. And lastly, one of the very minor ensemble characters was so committed that I ended up watching him the whole time.
The bottom line was the set was lame, the makeup was WAAAY too heavy (if you're going to give someone sunken eyes, at least stay in their natural eye socket - I'm pretty sure there aren't any raccoons written into the book for Sweeney Todd) and the costumes were not great (Tom Bernard would have cried), the acting was forced, the theatre staff was unprofessional, the orchestra members got up and walked around the auditorium at the interval. Basically, it seemed like they tried to put on a show with as little money and effort as possible and thought no one would notice. I did. There were times I wanted my money back.
However, the singing was impressive. And I can say I've seen Sweeney Todd.
Sort of.
Whatever, I'm going to the Cork Butter Museum. And then the airport. And then London. And then Austria! I CANNOT WAIT TO SEE ASTRID AND THE VENNINGDORFS!!!! It feels a little like going home. :)
Friday, 6 August 2010
Excuse My Language, but HOLY S*@%.
Okay, sorry Mom and Dad. But now that I've apologized, climbing Blarney Castle is one of the scariest things I've ever done. END. OF. STORY.
Now from where I left off last time.
Wait, WHAT!?!? Why is it FINALLY sunny in Cork as soon as I get inside?!?! This is ridiculous.
Anyway, I took a walking tour in Dublin on Wednesday. It was with the same company who did the three tours I took in Edinburgh, so my expectations were pretty high. My tour guide was a tall, skinny, pale guy named Garvan (whose name in Irish, Garbhan, means "Little Rough One". Heh.) Anyway, he spent a lot of time jokingly flicking his curly shoulder-length red hair and being really awkward. He talked way too much and had a really strange rhythm to his speech. It got old. Everytime we stopped I could here one of the other tour guides booming away in a bold, obnoxiously hilarious fashion that was much more my style. So, rude as it was, as soon as I saw an opportunity to run without Garvan seeing me, I bolted. GREAT IDEA. Mick was amazing, and I wish I'd had the guts to jump ship earlier. We went through Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Temple Bar, City Hall, St. Stephen's Green, the National Library, the Ha'Penny Bridge. Basically all over the area south of the Liffy. Mick gave a tip off for an amazing present for Andy, but unfortunately, it was a bit of a fail on my part. Sorry, I tried. :(
After the tour, I hopped onto a hop-on, hop-off tour bus to hitch a ride to the Guinness Storehouse. It's HUGE. I thought Sierra Nevada in Chico was cool, but this by far takes the cake. It covers acres and acres, and takes you all the way through the process of making beer, the history of the company, advertising, everything. The four components of Guinness are barley (roasted, malted AND flaked), hops, yeast, and water. Oh, and what they claimed was the fifth ingredient: Arthur Guinness. Ha, clever guys. So anyway, as you walk through all 7 stories of the building, you get to stick your hands in a giant sandbox of barley, actually eat roasted barley, see hops growing (they're kind of like a kelp forest but on land - people used to stand on stilts to harvest them), and walk under a waterfall (inside!). There's a Guinness taste along the way, but once you get to the end of the tour, the last floor is the Gravity Bar. It's seven stories up and the walls are all glass so you get pretty much a 360 degree view of Dublin. That, and a free pint of Guinness.
To be honest, the Guinness factory was a bit lonely. I'm not much of a beer drinker, and I know a bunch of people I really would have enjoyed walking through it with. Oh, and you could have finished my pint.
After the brewery, I had only a two hours to get home and get ready to meet Amy and Dan (the Irish couple I ate haggis with in Edinburgh). Well, I was DIRTY. And the bus was a stupid hot tour bus that made me sick and took forever. By the time I got back, I had less than an hour to shower, but let me tell you I needed one. I'm talking badly. And now's the point where you insert the last post I wrote. Great.
Amy and Dan met me at my hostel and they brought their friend Shane with them, who turned out to be really cool. They took me a traditional Irish pub on the north side of the Liffy. Apparently in Dublin, an Irish pub is one where less than 50% of the people there are tourists. And thanks guys for all the tourist jokes you made at my expense all night. :) I could not have asked for three better new friends. We listened to the band playing all night, while they sang and I clapped like a silly American. They told me all about Dublin (all three of their families have lived there for multiple generations), and I told them all about California. Dan and Shane knew quite a bit already because a few months ago they flew to the U.S., bought a cheap Winnebago and drove from Boston to San Diego. I'm going to go on a little tangent about Shane right now.
Apparently, at the end of their trip in San Diego, Shane was talking to Mexican guys. He's 24 but balding so he keeps his hair really short. So some skinheads see him talking to these guys, and decide that he's making them look bad, so they stab him in the back nine times casuing one of his lungs to collapse. No joke. And he's one of the nicest people I've ever met.
End of tangent.
Amy is such a sweetheart too. When I first saw her, she handed me bag and told me it was a Welcome-to-Ireland present. She works in graphic design (but wants to illustrate children's books) and she gave me an Ireland shirt that she designed herself. It's adorable, just like her. The night ended with getting a lamb donner at a delicious Persian restaurant. Amy, Dan, and Shane MADE Dublin. I just have to remember, it's not goodbye. It's see you soon.
Yesterday morning I spent a few hours at the National Library. Sooooo cool. Then it was onto the train station to catch a ride to Cork. The Irish countryside is BEAUTIFUL. I'm pretty sure the teenager next to me thought I was crazy, the way I had my face plastered to the window for four hours.
Well, Cork is actually a little of a disappointment. It's got some cool stuff, but it's drab and dirty and not quite what I expected. What is amazing though is my bed and breakfast. I have a big bed all to myself, and it's not five feet off the ground! I have my own shower that is so big I can spread my elbows out to the side! I have a TV, which I forgot existed, and a nightstand with a lamp, and a vanity, and a full-lenth mirror, and FIVE PILLOWS, AND A SHELF IN THE BATHROOM, AND SOAP - OMIGOD SOAP. I forgot what comfortable felt like. I took the longest shower in the world, and it was amazing. I watched tv as I was falling asleep. Like. A. Baby.
And they have a free breakfast that they actually cook for you when you get there! I thought it was just cereal and the like, so that's what I grabbed along with coffee and tea. But then, while I was thoroughly enjoying what I was eating, the breakfast lady brought me a basket of warm toast. Okay, but then while I was eating THAT, all of a sudden a full Irish breakfast materializes in front of me! Ham! Two sausages! An egg! Beans! a quarter of a tomato! I got on a train to leave Dublin, and ended up in heaven disguised as a guesthouse.
After breakfast I ran across the street to catch a tour bus that takes you around the city and out to Blarney. Pretty much the whole reason I came to Cork was to kiss the Blarney Stone (I'm an actor! I need it.), and today was the day! Cork itself got a little more interesting with someone telling you the history, but for some reason, this city just seems a little, well, sad. Hardly anyone is out and it's not kept up very well. Even the supposedly happenin' streets are lonely it feels like. So out to Blarney, which was really small. The castle was REALLY cool. I can't even do it justice, so I'll just have to show you pictures. But let me tell you, climbing it was not the most fun/safe thing I've ever done. Mom, you saw me on Notre Dame and Sacre Couer. Multiple that by a gazillion. I was all by myself!!!!!! (I HATE STAIRS)You get to explore some of the old rooms on the way up and the view from the top was amazing, but the Blarney Stone itself is pretty much what got me to the top of the six stories of NARROW, SPIRAL stairs that were, at some points literally FOUR INCHES WIDE, with only a crumbly old wall and rope hanging in the middle to hold onto. However, kissing the Blarey Stone itself is not exactly the least frightening thing I've ever done. For some reason unbeknownst to me, its on the underside of the battlements at the top of the castle, and you have to lay down and lean upside down over nothing but few metal bars, while some impersonal man working for tips holds you as you hang over the edge. It just had to be done though, and yes, Dustin, I actually kissed it. Now you'll never want to touch me again. I feel a little silly, but I ended up buying a picture at the end for 10 euros, because even though a nice man from the Netherlands took some for me, they weren't amazing. He saw me after I climbed down and seemed a little offended. Then he implied it was a waste of money. Maybe, but it will look good in my scrapbook.
I came back to Cork and basically went on a hunt for MORE presets for everyone. It's getting a little out of control, you guys. I can't help it! As I was shopping on St. Patrick's Street and Paul Street, I came across Cork's famous English Market. It didn't quite compare to London's Borough Market, but I did have an amazing sausage sandwich from a place that was actually making the sausages right in front of me. Delicious.
Lastly, and this is perhaps one of the biggest revelations of the trip (get ready to roll those eyes, Andy), APPARENTLY Topshop gives students a 10% discount if you show your student ID! Are ou kidding?!? Dear Topshop employees of London, Edinburgh, and Dublin, YOU ALL FAIL. Love, Ashleigh.
Alright, now for reals the last thing. I spent way to much money today, but I have in my possession a ticket to see a touring production of Sweeney Todd in the third row of the Everyman Palace Theatre tonight. It was only 20 euros because the girl knocked off a couple bucks. Jealous? I would be.
Okay, that was a novel. I hope my writing doesn't bore you! This is also a bit of a journal for me too so forgive me. Cheers!
Now from where I left off last time.
Wait, WHAT!?!? Why is it FINALLY sunny in Cork as soon as I get inside?!?! This is ridiculous.
Anyway, I took a walking tour in Dublin on Wednesday. It was with the same company who did the three tours I took in Edinburgh, so my expectations were pretty high. My tour guide was a tall, skinny, pale guy named Garvan (whose name in Irish, Garbhan, means "Little Rough One". Heh.) Anyway, he spent a lot of time jokingly flicking his curly shoulder-length red hair and being really awkward. He talked way too much and had a really strange rhythm to his speech. It got old. Everytime we stopped I could here one of the other tour guides booming away in a bold, obnoxiously hilarious fashion that was much more my style. So, rude as it was, as soon as I saw an opportunity to run without Garvan seeing me, I bolted. GREAT IDEA. Mick was amazing, and I wish I'd had the guts to jump ship earlier. We went through Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Temple Bar, City Hall, St. Stephen's Green, the National Library, the Ha'Penny Bridge. Basically all over the area south of the Liffy. Mick gave a tip off for an amazing present for Andy, but unfortunately, it was a bit of a fail on my part. Sorry, I tried. :(
After the tour, I hopped onto a hop-on, hop-off tour bus to hitch a ride to the Guinness Storehouse. It's HUGE. I thought Sierra Nevada in Chico was cool, but this by far takes the cake. It covers acres and acres, and takes you all the way through the process of making beer, the history of the company, advertising, everything. The four components of Guinness are barley (roasted, malted AND flaked), hops, yeast, and water. Oh, and what they claimed was the fifth ingredient: Arthur Guinness. Ha, clever guys. So anyway, as you walk through all 7 stories of the building, you get to stick your hands in a giant sandbox of barley, actually eat roasted barley, see hops growing (they're kind of like a kelp forest but on land - people used to stand on stilts to harvest them), and walk under a waterfall (inside!). There's a Guinness taste along the way, but once you get to the end of the tour, the last floor is the Gravity Bar. It's seven stories up and the walls are all glass so you get pretty much a 360 degree view of Dublin. That, and a free pint of Guinness.
To be honest, the Guinness factory was a bit lonely. I'm not much of a beer drinker, and I know a bunch of people I really would have enjoyed walking through it with. Oh, and you could have finished my pint.
After the brewery, I had only a two hours to get home and get ready to meet Amy and Dan (the Irish couple I ate haggis with in Edinburgh). Well, I was DIRTY. And the bus was a stupid hot tour bus that made me sick and took forever. By the time I got back, I had less than an hour to shower, but let me tell you I needed one. I'm talking badly. And now's the point where you insert the last post I wrote. Great.
Amy and Dan met me at my hostel and they brought their friend Shane with them, who turned out to be really cool. They took me a traditional Irish pub on the north side of the Liffy. Apparently in Dublin, an Irish pub is one where less than 50% of the people there are tourists. And thanks guys for all the tourist jokes you made at my expense all night. :) I could not have asked for three better new friends. We listened to the band playing all night, while they sang and I clapped like a silly American. They told me all about Dublin (all three of their families have lived there for multiple generations), and I told them all about California. Dan and Shane knew quite a bit already because a few months ago they flew to the U.S., bought a cheap Winnebago and drove from Boston to San Diego. I'm going to go on a little tangent about Shane right now.
Apparently, at the end of their trip in San Diego, Shane was talking to Mexican guys. He's 24 but balding so he keeps his hair really short. So some skinheads see him talking to these guys, and decide that he's making them look bad, so they stab him in the back nine times casuing one of his lungs to collapse. No joke. And he's one of the nicest people I've ever met.
End of tangent.
Amy is such a sweetheart too. When I first saw her, she handed me bag and told me it was a Welcome-to-Ireland present. She works in graphic design (but wants to illustrate children's books) and she gave me an Ireland shirt that she designed herself. It's adorable, just like her. The night ended with getting a lamb donner at a delicious Persian restaurant. Amy, Dan, and Shane MADE Dublin. I just have to remember, it's not goodbye. It's see you soon.
Yesterday morning I spent a few hours at the National Library. Sooooo cool. Then it was onto the train station to catch a ride to Cork. The Irish countryside is BEAUTIFUL. I'm pretty sure the teenager next to me thought I was crazy, the way I had my face plastered to the window for four hours.
Well, Cork is actually a little of a disappointment. It's got some cool stuff, but it's drab and dirty and not quite what I expected. What is amazing though is my bed and breakfast. I have a big bed all to myself, and it's not five feet off the ground! I have my own shower that is so big I can spread my elbows out to the side! I have a TV, which I forgot existed, and a nightstand with a lamp, and a vanity, and a full-lenth mirror, and FIVE PILLOWS, AND A SHELF IN THE BATHROOM, AND SOAP - OMIGOD SOAP. I forgot what comfortable felt like. I took the longest shower in the world, and it was amazing. I watched tv as I was falling asleep. Like. A. Baby.
And they have a free breakfast that they actually cook for you when you get there! I thought it was just cereal and the like, so that's what I grabbed along with coffee and tea. But then, while I was thoroughly enjoying what I was eating, the breakfast lady brought me a basket of warm toast. Okay, but then while I was eating THAT, all of a sudden a full Irish breakfast materializes in front of me! Ham! Two sausages! An egg! Beans! a quarter of a tomato! I got on a train to leave Dublin, and ended up in heaven disguised as a guesthouse.
After breakfast I ran across the street to catch a tour bus that takes you around the city and out to Blarney. Pretty much the whole reason I came to Cork was to kiss the Blarney Stone (I'm an actor! I need it.), and today was the day! Cork itself got a little more interesting with someone telling you the history, but for some reason, this city just seems a little, well, sad. Hardly anyone is out and it's not kept up very well. Even the supposedly happenin' streets are lonely it feels like. So out to Blarney, which was really small. The castle was REALLY cool. I can't even do it justice, so I'll just have to show you pictures. But let me tell you, climbing it was not the most fun/safe thing I've ever done. Mom, you saw me on Notre Dame and Sacre Couer. Multiple that by a gazillion. I was all by myself!!!!!! (I HATE STAIRS)You get to explore some of the old rooms on the way up and the view from the top was amazing, but the Blarney Stone itself is pretty much what got me to the top of the six stories of NARROW, SPIRAL stairs that were, at some points literally FOUR INCHES WIDE, with only a crumbly old wall and rope hanging in the middle to hold onto. However, kissing the Blarey Stone itself is not exactly the least frightening thing I've ever done. For some reason unbeknownst to me, its on the underside of the battlements at the top of the castle, and you have to lay down and lean upside down over nothing but few metal bars, while some impersonal man working for tips holds you as you hang over the edge. It just had to be done though, and yes, Dustin, I actually kissed it. Now you'll never want to touch me again. I feel a little silly, but I ended up buying a picture at the end for 10 euros, because even though a nice man from the Netherlands took some for me, they weren't amazing. He saw me after I climbed down and seemed a little offended. Then he implied it was a waste of money. Maybe, but it will look good in my scrapbook.
I came back to Cork and basically went on a hunt for MORE presets for everyone. It's getting a little out of control, you guys. I can't help it! As I was shopping on St. Patrick's Street and Paul Street, I came across Cork's famous English Market. It didn't quite compare to London's Borough Market, but I did have an amazing sausage sandwich from a place that was actually making the sausages right in front of me. Delicious.
Lastly, and this is perhaps one of the biggest revelations of the trip (get ready to roll those eyes, Andy), APPARENTLY Topshop gives students a 10% discount if you show your student ID! Are ou kidding?!? Dear Topshop employees of London, Edinburgh, and Dublin, YOU ALL FAIL. Love, Ashleigh.
Alright, now for reals the last thing. I spent way to much money today, but I have in my possession a ticket to see a touring production of Sweeney Todd in the third row of the Everyman Palace Theatre tonight. It was only 20 euros because the girl knocked off a couple bucks. Jealous? I would be.
Okay, that was a novel. I hope my writing doesn't bore you! This is also a bit of a journal for me too so forgive me. Cheers!
Post Meant to Go Up Wednesday.
I am DIRTIER, HUNGRIER, POORER, and MORE EXHAUSTED than I've ever been.
If any of you have a solution, permanent or temporary, to any or all of these problems, please send it to Ireland immediately.
Thanks.
If any of you have a solution, permanent or temporary, to any or all of these problems, please send it to Ireland immediately.
Thanks.
Wednesday, 4 August 2010
Thanks Maria! Now here's your sunshine...
Ohhhhh Dublin.
I just love this city already. When I got off the plane, the first thing I felt in Ireland was sick. For some reason I got really sick on the bus to the airport, and then of course, even though I can't remember being sick on airplanes, I think it just carried over. Well, it also didn't help that when I got out of the airport, I had NO idea where to go. Welcome to the first big hitch in my giddyup, as Dad would say. Three bus drivers later, one finally told me to jump on the 41 bus, which of course was about to pull away. So I did, and of course, once I looked at the bus route map again, realized that this was not the bus that dropped me off in front of my hostel, which of course is on the only street that has a name I recognize. Here I am sitting on the bus in a foreign city, but this time I can't ride it until something looks familiar. That's because NOTHING is familiar.
Enter reason numero uno I love this city. The people are soooo nice. At first I pulled out my guidebook and and marked a giant star where I needed to go. Then I asked a nice looking girl in front of me if she knew where I am suppoed to get off. Nope. So next is the man sitting next to her, who won't answer me. Okaaaaaay... Finally I go for the elderly couple sitting behind. Nicest. People. Ever. They are so happy to help, and the lady says she's getting off at the very last stop which is O'Connell Street. It's a bit of a walk from my hostel but she'll show me where to go. Nowm this lady is exactly what you'd expect of an Irish grandma. Her name is Maria, and she lovingly touches you on the shoulder about every, oh I don't know, three seconds when you're talking to her. She lives just outside of Dublin but is on her way to the city centre to buy a baby present for her friend's first grandchild. She talks about how proud she is of me for travelling by myself while I still can because life goes by so fast. She comments on the weather and how humid it is. It's been cloudy and rainy here for quite a few days and she's ready to see the sun. This is when I told her maybe I'll bring some California sunshine for her. So we get off the bus on the busiest street, and she points me in the right direction, AND tells me how to get back to the airport, AND what sights I should check out while I'm here. I thank her profusely, and she tells me she has kids too and would want someone to look out for hers. All of this in the thickest, cutest Irish accent.
It's sunny outside. I wonder if she'll think of me today. :)
So off the bus, and I end up walking forever. But along the way, I found a couple of the sights on my checklist, including Trinity College (where the Samuel Beckett Theatre is!), St. Stephen's Green, and Grafton Street. This town has amazing shopping. Come to think of it, everywhere I've been does.
My hostel is wicked. (Just a little thing I picked up from the Aussies in Edinburgh...) It's artsy and cool, with jazz playing in the reception area. The walls are painted funky colors, and there is art everywhere. Leather couches, pool tables, a built-in cafe called the Bald Barista. This is exactly what I've been looking for. The staff is super friendly, and it's everything I hoped a hostel would be, unlike stupid St. Christopher's in Edinburgh. Gross. Here the showers work, the rooms are artsy with sinks actually in them (!) and there are so many cool people here! Oh, and the internet I'm using? FREE. They have five computers downstairs. Awesome.
Last night, I went out exploring like I usually do. I walked a little way through St. Stephen's Green, up Grafton street where I saw the coolest band busking on the street. They're called Harry and Alfie is you want to look them up. I continued back to Trinity Collegeto see Parliament Square, and if I have time and money today, I want to go to their library because that's where the Book of Kells is kept! So amazing. From there I went to Temple Bar, which i supposed to be happenin' in the evening. Yes, this is correct, even on a Tuesday. I was told by my friends Amy and Daniel who I ate haggis with in Edinburgh that Temple Bar's really touristy but I wanted to go anyway. Good thing I went. All I relly wanted to do last night was see a show (number, hmmm, 19 of the trip?). and I found a random little theatre just on the otherside of that area. The show playing was called The Colleen Bawn, and after reading the reviews in the window decided it might be worth the 12 euros to see it. It turned out to be a pretty cool show. It was a melodramatic tragic comedy (did you get all that?) with a lot of Irish culture and tradition mixed in. I really wanted a show with Irish elements since where else can I really see one, except in Ireland? (I guess I saw Lieutenant of Inishmore at Berkeley rep, but their accents were fake. This show touched on the class system in Ireland, with most actors each playing both an upper-class and extremely lower-class character. Most of the acting was great, and it was very interesting to see how they pulled off this show with a very minimal set. Totally worth it.
So the walk home last night... Whoops. Turns out I was a little farther from my hostel than expected, and the area in between gets really dodgy after 10 pm. But I ran home safely, so don't worry.
My roomates this time are Marie, Ari, and Nicola from the south of France, but we haven't really talked much because of the language barrier. They're really nice though, and Marie has amazing clothes.
Anyway, I've got to go! For one because I'm in Dublin sitting a computer instead of out seeing the city, and two because there is a sign in front of me that says, and I quote:
"FREE INTERNET IS FOR ALL GUESTS! These computers will automatically eat people who take longer than 20 minutes while others are waiting."
Alright, I got it. I love you all!
P.S. I'll be home in less than two weeks...
I just love this city already. When I got off the plane, the first thing I felt in Ireland was sick. For some reason I got really sick on the bus to the airport, and then of course, even though I can't remember being sick on airplanes, I think it just carried over. Well, it also didn't help that when I got out of the airport, I had NO idea where to go. Welcome to the first big hitch in my giddyup, as Dad would say. Three bus drivers later, one finally told me to jump on the 41 bus, which of course was about to pull away. So I did, and of course, once I looked at the bus route map again, realized that this was not the bus that dropped me off in front of my hostel, which of course is on the only street that has a name I recognize. Here I am sitting on the bus in a foreign city, but this time I can't ride it until something looks familiar. That's because NOTHING is familiar.
Enter reason numero uno I love this city. The people are soooo nice. At first I pulled out my guidebook and and marked a giant star where I needed to go. Then I asked a nice looking girl in front of me if she knew where I am suppoed to get off. Nope. So next is the man sitting next to her, who won't answer me. Okaaaaaay... Finally I go for the elderly couple sitting behind. Nicest. People. Ever. They are so happy to help, and the lady says she's getting off at the very last stop which is O'Connell Street. It's a bit of a walk from my hostel but she'll show me where to go. Nowm this lady is exactly what you'd expect of an Irish grandma. Her name is Maria, and she lovingly touches you on the shoulder about every, oh I don't know, three seconds when you're talking to her. She lives just outside of Dublin but is on her way to the city centre to buy a baby present for her friend's first grandchild. She talks about how proud she is of me for travelling by myself while I still can because life goes by so fast. She comments on the weather and how humid it is. It's been cloudy and rainy here for quite a few days and she's ready to see the sun. This is when I told her maybe I'll bring some California sunshine for her. So we get off the bus on the busiest street, and she points me in the right direction, AND tells me how to get back to the airport, AND what sights I should check out while I'm here. I thank her profusely, and she tells me she has kids too and would want someone to look out for hers. All of this in the thickest, cutest Irish accent.
It's sunny outside. I wonder if she'll think of me today. :)
So off the bus, and I end up walking forever. But along the way, I found a couple of the sights on my checklist, including Trinity College (where the Samuel Beckett Theatre is!), St. Stephen's Green, and Grafton Street. This town has amazing shopping. Come to think of it, everywhere I've been does.
My hostel is wicked. (Just a little thing I picked up from the Aussies in Edinburgh...) It's artsy and cool, with jazz playing in the reception area. The walls are painted funky colors, and there is art everywhere. Leather couches, pool tables, a built-in cafe called the Bald Barista. This is exactly what I've been looking for. The staff is super friendly, and it's everything I hoped a hostel would be, unlike stupid St. Christopher's in Edinburgh. Gross. Here the showers work, the rooms are artsy with sinks actually in them (!) and there are so many cool people here! Oh, and the internet I'm using? FREE. They have five computers downstairs. Awesome.
Last night, I went out exploring like I usually do. I walked a little way through St. Stephen's Green, up Grafton street where I saw the coolest band busking on the street. They're called Harry and Alfie is you want to look them up. I continued back to Trinity Collegeto see Parliament Square, and if I have time and money today, I want to go to their library because that's where the Book of Kells is kept! So amazing. From there I went to Temple Bar, which i supposed to be happenin' in the evening. Yes, this is correct, even on a Tuesday. I was told by my friends Amy and Daniel who I ate haggis with in Edinburgh that Temple Bar's really touristy but I wanted to go anyway. Good thing I went. All I relly wanted to do last night was see a show (number, hmmm, 19 of the trip?). and I found a random little theatre just on the otherside of that area. The show playing was called The Colleen Bawn, and after reading the reviews in the window decided it might be worth the 12 euros to see it. It turned out to be a pretty cool show. It was a melodramatic tragic comedy (did you get all that?) with a lot of Irish culture and tradition mixed in. I really wanted a show with Irish elements since where else can I really see one, except in Ireland? (I guess I saw Lieutenant of Inishmore at Berkeley rep, but their accents were fake. This show touched on the class system in Ireland, with most actors each playing both an upper-class and extremely lower-class character. Most of the acting was great, and it was very interesting to see how they pulled off this show with a very minimal set. Totally worth it.
So the walk home last night... Whoops. Turns out I was a little farther from my hostel than expected, and the area in between gets really dodgy after 10 pm. But I ran home safely, so don't worry.
My roomates this time are Marie, Ari, and Nicola from the south of France, but we haven't really talked much because of the language barrier. They're really nice though, and Marie has amazing clothes.
Anyway, I've got to go! For one because I'm in Dublin sitting a computer instead of out seeing the city, and two because there is a sign in front of me that says, and I quote:
"FREE INTERNET IS FOR ALL GUESTS! These computers will automatically eat people who take longer than 20 minutes while others are waiting."
Alright, I got it. I love you all!
P.S. I'll be home in less than two weeks...
Tuesday, 3 August 2010
Well Edinburgh, it's been fun.
Alright everyone, I'm in the airport in Edinburgh about to board my flight for Dublin! This also means that I'm paying for very expensinve Internet so it's a race against the clock. No proofreading today!
Edinburgh was amazing. Sunday night I went on the ghost tour like I said I would and it was so fun! We walked through the street at night, and the tour guide told us myths and stories from the past (and one from the not so distant past that was quit bone-chilling). The tour guide was a bit over dramatic, but it was a great way for me to safely see the city at night when travelling by myself.
Yesterday I decided to walk to the port in Leith to see the water (the Firth of Forht). Well, bad idea. It was waaaaaaaaay farther than I expected and by the time I got there I was grumpy and exhausted. Not only that, byt there was not much there at all. I found a mall, ended up eating lunch at a Starbucks and wallowed for a bit. I chose this over going to Holyrood Park which would have been a much better choice. Well, I started to walk back and said forget this, so the next bus stop I saw I hopped on and rode it until SOMETHING looked familiar. Luckily, this was really effective. I had planned on gion to more sights when I got back, but I was not in the mood. I took a nap at my hostel andwhen I woke up I was so sore that I decided to take it easy. Don't want ot wear myself out before the next two weeks (then I'm coming home!).
I walked around in the evening and bought more presents (one for you Sue!) and was in dire need of a good meal. I pulled out my guidebook and found myself right next to a restaurant called Mussel Inn on a happening pedestrian street called Rose Street. Well, I ended up eating almost a 1/2 kilo of mussels in white wine, cream, onions and garlic, chips (fries), and bread. Fat and HAPPY. Went to bed early and got a great shower (the first good one since Friday... the last time I tried, the water shut off mid shampoo!) No one was in my room last night so I got it to myself.
This morning I had breakfast and hot choclate with my Australian friends Zoe and Andy. They are amazing! I wish I could write more but I gtg!
Edinburgh was amazing. Sunday night I went on the ghost tour like I said I would and it was so fun! We walked through the street at night, and the tour guide told us myths and stories from the past (and one from the not so distant past that was quit bone-chilling). The tour guide was a bit over dramatic, but it was a great way for me to safely see the city at night when travelling by myself.
Yesterday I decided to walk to the port in Leith to see the water (the Firth of Forht). Well, bad idea. It was waaaaaaaaay farther than I expected and by the time I got there I was grumpy and exhausted. Not only that, byt there was not much there at all. I found a mall, ended up eating lunch at a Starbucks and wallowed for a bit. I chose this over going to Holyrood Park which would have been a much better choice. Well, I started to walk back and said forget this, so the next bus stop I saw I hopped on and rode it until SOMETHING looked familiar. Luckily, this was really effective. I had planned on gion to more sights when I got back, but I was not in the mood. I took a nap at my hostel andwhen I woke up I was so sore that I decided to take it easy. Don't want ot wear myself out before the next two weeks (then I'm coming home!).
I walked around in the evening and bought more presents (one for you Sue!) and was in dire need of a good meal. I pulled out my guidebook and found myself right next to a restaurant called Mussel Inn on a happening pedestrian street called Rose Street. Well, I ended up eating almost a 1/2 kilo of mussels in white wine, cream, onions and garlic, chips (fries), and bread. Fat and HAPPY. Went to bed early and got a great shower (the first good one since Friday... the last time I tried, the water shut off mid shampoo!) No one was in my room last night so I got it to myself.
This morning I had breakfast and hot choclate with my Australian friends Zoe and Andy. They are amazing! I wish I could write more but I gtg!
Sunday, 1 August 2010
You'll never guess what I just ate.
Yup, it was haggis. If you don't know what it is, it's sheep's heart and lungs mixed with oats and spices before being put back in its stomach to be boiled. Add some neeps and tatties (turnips and mashed potatos), and you have the most satisfying meal I've ever had. Quite a national dish if you ask me...
So if you haven't guessed, I've successfully made it to Scotland. Edinburgh is absolutely one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. Sorry, but this blog will be a SparkNotes version because I found some free internet by walking into a fancy hotel like I own the place, even though ther is no way I could afford to stay here. (Just being a bit scrappy!) I left London yesterday morning at 8:45 am, and let me tell you, lugging a gazillion pounds on luggage all the way across London by tubing it is quite an ordeal. I wouldn't recommend it. I'm definitely sending stuff home TOMORROW.
I was pretty nervous being here by myself, but it turns out my hostel is immediately across the street from one of the exits of the train station. I'm in a six bunk room, which means instant best friends. I explored for awhile last night, walking down Princes Street, down a bunch of side streets and through the Princes Street Gardens. Edinburgh Castle is beautiful, as is the Scott Memorial. Dinner was fish and chips at the pub literally IN my hostel, which turned out to be quite a happening place! Wasn't expecting it, but it's a pleasant surprise.
Well, when I was trying to figure out what to do with myself last night, I came across a company that has three tours that they do: a free walking tour of Old Town Edinburgh, a pub crawl at night, and a ghost tour (the latter of which is on tonight's agenda!). I decided that I would try the pub crawl, which basically they lead you through 5 prominent pubs and end at a club with VIP entrance. Totally worth it. I don't care much for the alcohol, but I really wanted to meet some people. Which gets me to my point here.
Travelling by yourself is a must. I have been here for just a little over 24 hours and you can't imagine the people I've met. Between the pubs last night and 3 1/2 hour tour I took this morning, I've met the most amazing people. Here's a run-down:
My roomates last night were...
Paula, who can't wait to get home to Brazil.
A couple from Edminton, Canada.
Jackie, an amazingly outgoing girl from Australia, who's been travelling for 6 months.
Added to the list is:
Stewart from Poland, who is a bartender at my hostel. I think he fancies me a bit. :)
Andrew from North Carolina, who is now working for a law firm in London.
Zoe and Andy, an 18-year-old couple from Adelaide, Australia. They just graduated from high school and are couch surfing for 6 months before college. They just got to the UK from California! We're getting dinner tomorrow night.
David, a fourth year business student from Missouri who is studying in Dublin.
Alicia who is Australian but lives in Dublin. She wants to give me a locals tour later this week when I'm there.
Claudia, a 30-year-old teacher from Spain. She opted out of the Spanish tour this morning to take the English one because she's here to immerse herself in the culture to perfect her Enlgish.
Jeff from New York City, who just quit his job working for a celebrity (Oprah!) to pick up and move to LA. He's travelling by himself for two months!
Amy and Daniel from Dublin, who are visiting for a weekend. She wants to be an illustratorf ro children's books, and he's the craziest traveller I've ever met. He just drove from Boston to San Diego, and in a few months he's driving from France to China. We made plans to get a drink in Dublin on Wednesday night.
So anyway, I'm having a great time! And don't worry Mom and Dad, I'm being absolutely 100% safe. I miss you and I love you all! I'll be in touch, as long as I can keep finding a computer. :)
P.S. I typed that so quickly that it probably makes no sense. Sorry!
So if you haven't guessed, I've successfully made it to Scotland. Edinburgh is absolutely one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. Sorry, but this blog will be a SparkNotes version because I found some free internet by walking into a fancy hotel like I own the place, even though ther is no way I could afford to stay here. (Just being a bit scrappy!) I left London yesterday morning at 8:45 am, and let me tell you, lugging a gazillion pounds on luggage all the way across London by tubing it is quite an ordeal. I wouldn't recommend it. I'm definitely sending stuff home TOMORROW.
I was pretty nervous being here by myself, but it turns out my hostel is immediately across the street from one of the exits of the train station. I'm in a six bunk room, which means instant best friends. I explored for awhile last night, walking down Princes Street, down a bunch of side streets and through the Princes Street Gardens. Edinburgh Castle is beautiful, as is the Scott Memorial. Dinner was fish and chips at the pub literally IN my hostel, which turned out to be quite a happening place! Wasn't expecting it, but it's a pleasant surprise.
Well, when I was trying to figure out what to do with myself last night, I came across a company that has three tours that they do: a free walking tour of Old Town Edinburgh, a pub crawl at night, and a ghost tour (the latter of which is on tonight's agenda!). I decided that I would try the pub crawl, which basically they lead you through 5 prominent pubs and end at a club with VIP entrance. Totally worth it. I don't care much for the alcohol, but I really wanted to meet some people. Which gets me to my point here.
Travelling by yourself is a must. I have been here for just a little over 24 hours and you can't imagine the people I've met. Between the pubs last night and 3 1/2 hour tour I took this morning, I've met the most amazing people. Here's a run-down:
My roomates last night were...
Paula, who can't wait to get home to Brazil.
A couple from Edminton, Canada.
Jackie, an amazingly outgoing girl from Australia, who's been travelling for 6 months.
Added to the list is:
Stewart from Poland, who is a bartender at my hostel. I think he fancies me a bit. :)
Andrew from North Carolina, who is now working for a law firm in London.
Zoe and Andy, an 18-year-old couple from Adelaide, Australia. They just graduated from high school and are couch surfing for 6 months before college. They just got to the UK from California! We're getting dinner tomorrow night.
David, a fourth year business student from Missouri who is studying in Dublin.
Alicia who is Australian but lives in Dublin. She wants to give me a locals tour later this week when I'm there.
Claudia, a 30-year-old teacher from Spain. She opted out of the Spanish tour this morning to take the English one because she's here to immerse herself in the culture to perfect her Enlgish.
Jeff from New York City, who just quit his job working for a celebrity (Oprah!) to pick up and move to LA. He's travelling by himself for two months!
Amy and Daniel from Dublin, who are visiting for a weekend. She wants to be an illustratorf ro children's books, and he's the craziest traveller I've ever met. He just drove from Boston to San Diego, and in a few months he's driving from France to China. We made plans to get a drink in Dublin on Wednesday night.
So anyway, I'm having a great time! And don't worry Mom and Dad, I'm being absolutely 100% safe. I miss you and I love you all! I'll be in touch, as long as I can keep finding a computer. :)
P.S. I typed that so quickly that it probably makes no sense. Sorry!
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